Car audio boxes love big numbers. A monoblock amp might say 13,000W; a 12" sub might say 2,000W. Those figures are almost always peak power. They're real numbers from the manufacturer, but they're not the ones to build a system around.
Peak power
Peak (sometimes called max) power is the most a product can handle or produce for a very short burst. It's useful as a ceiling, not as an everyday rating. Two products with the same peak figure can perform very differently.
RMS power
RMS (continuous) power is what an amplifier can deliver, or a speaker can handle, steadily over time. It's always lower than peak. When you match parts in a system, RMS is the number that matters.
How to match an amp to a sub or speakers
- Compare RMS to RMS. Aim for an amplifier whose RMS output at the right impedance is close to your speaker's or sub's RMS rating.
- Check impedance (ohms). An amp's RMS output changes with the load. Dual voice coil (DVC) subs give you more wiring options to hit the load your amp is happiest with.
- Don't chase peak watts. A bigger peak number on the box doesn't mean a louder or cleaner system.
- Budget for wiring. The right gauge amp wiring kit and a fuse near the battery protect your car and your gear.
Where we show power
On our product pages we show the manufacturer's peak rating and label it as peak. Where we don't have a verified RMS figure, we say so rather than guess. If you're unsure what to pair, send us what you've got and we'll help.